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Nikon FM3A

Nikon FM3A 35mm Film Camera

The FM3A offers aperture-priority autoexposure and through-the-lens flash exposure control. Film speed can be set via the DX codes on the... Read More
The FM3A offers aperture-priority autoexposure and through-the-lens flash exposure control. Film speed can be set via the DX codes on the film canisters. That's pretty much it for automation. Controls are a very traditional "two-dial" classic manual camera setup. You turn the lens aperture ring (Dial 1) to adjust aperture. You turn the shutter speed dial (Dial 2) on the top deck to adjust shutter speed. You turn the lens focus ring to focus (this doesn't rate a dial number in the autofocus world). Minimize
Author's Rating: Rating: 5/5 stars
15 Reviews from Shopping.com

By:   jvandegr
Mar 16, 2004

A Great PRIMARY Body... the Nikon FM3A is a photographer's camera.

Author's Rating: Rating: 5/5 stars

Pros: Tough as nails, ergonomic design, advanced features (for a manual SLR) but no nonsense features.

Cons: Noisy shutter / mirror slap.

The Bottom Line: 
Highly recommended - a very reliable and well-designed camera that can really work for just about any photographer.

Author's Review
Rather than give you the complete list of features and specifications, since other reviewers have generously provided these, I'd like to spend my time writing about how I use this camera to give you an idea of what it's capable of. I'm not sure how many photographers have need for a camera for the following uses, but even if you don't, this is a testament to how well this camera is designed and built.

"A manual SLR is your first body?"

I spent months looking for a camera that could perform under certain extreme conditions and this is one of a very few that can. I'm an earth scientist and I spend a lot of my time at high elevations and high latitudes in cold conditions. For a number of reasons, most cameras don't do well in these conditions. For example, batteries freeze up, LCDs freeze up, and plastic cracks. The Nikon FM3A is built almost entirely of metal, has no LCD displays, minimal battery-sucking electronics, and is built to take more than a few knocks. To my knowledge, Nikon is the last company that is still developing (not just manufacturing) manual SLR cameras. I almost purchased the Nikon F3HP instead of the FM3A, but I couldn't resist the value (price vs. features) of the FM3A. All these reasons are why this camera is my first camera body, meaning this is what I reach for first. My backup is a Canon Elan IIe, which is also a wonderful camera but is incapable of dealing with the environmental extremes I subject the FM3A to.

Ergonomics

If this sounds like you, then this is your camera:

Ever try to operate an LCD-oriented camera with gloves on in cold temperatures? Good luck. Regardless of the problem with LCDs freezing, I'll take a non-LCD camera over an LCD camera any day. Dials are usually more reliable, are much easier for human hands to operate, and you don't waste time selecting settings from multiple menus. The oversized and clearly marked dials of the FM3A are a joy to operate. Even though I'm an accomplished website designer and I teach digital photography, I still find dials (and "manual" indicators) more intuitive when it comes to photography. I know, the menus allow the camera to have more options, but the FM3A has everything I need right there on the dials, which are so much easier to operate than button-controlled menus (this was one of my attractions to the Canon Elan IIe). If I did a different type of photography, maybe I'd be singing a different tune, but maybe not. Of course, no LCD also means fewer electronics to drain the battery.

(Hey - I'm not ripping on your F5 or your D2h, so chill. These are both amazing cameras that represent so much of what we've learned about photography over the last several decades and I would be happy shooting with either).

One final note about ergonomics. Interesting that Epinions gives the highest possible "ease of use" rating to "operates with the touch of a button." A camera that operates with the touch of a button is going to be a very limited point-and-shoot camera. The highest possible rating should be something like "extremely intuitive operation." I know this is subjective, but it's better than the "touch of a button" nonsense. Okay, sorry, done venting.

Metering (exposure)

Exposure is nearly always exceptional, as I've come to expect from Nikon's metering systems. No fancy selection of multiple metering modes here, just center-weighted, down the middle, and guess what - it really works. On several occasions, the FM3A's meter has out-performed my dedicated handheld meter - I'm still trying to figure out how that happened. I wish my Canon with all its metering modes worked as well. The needle indicator in the viewfinder has never failed, even in sub-zero temperatures. That being said, enough exposure to sub-zero temperatures will eventually drain the battery and cause the meter to stop working - this is true with any camera. Still, I'm impressed with how long the battery keeps going in these extreme conditions. When the battery does die, the only thing that stops working is the meter! In very cold environments, this means you can just keep shooting, as long as the lubricants in the camera don't freeze. If that happens, you need to be seriously re-evaluating your current situation for personal health reasons :)

Nikkor lens compatibility and functionality (focusing)

I hang several Nikkor lenses on this body: A 24mm 2.8D, a 50mm 1.8D, a 135mm 2.8 AIS, and a 80-200mm 2.8 AF-D. All of them have performed flawlessly for the 1 year that I've owned the FM3A.

Manual focusing is usually spot on with this body, thanks in large part to a very bright viewfinder (the brightest I've seen) and quality focusing screen (I use the included screen, but there are at least two others to choose from). After this, manual focusing is largely a function of lens ergonomics. The 50mm 1.8 D is designed primarily as an autofocus lens. As such, manual focusing leaves much to be desired with this lens due to a poor manual focus ring. The 80-200mm 2.8 AF-D proves that you don't need to sacrifice manual focusing ability on an autofocus lens. Still, the Nikkor 135mm 2.8 AIS is designed as a manual focus lens and puts every other lens I've ever tried to shame in this regard. This particular lens interfaces beautifully with the FM3A in terms of size, weight, and everything else. Even though I have this focal length covered with the 80-200mm, they'll pry this lens from my cold dead hands because of how well it integrates itself with the FM3A design.

Although the viewfinder's coverage is limited (about 92%), this hasn't been a huge problem for me after more than a year of use. Still, this is probably my only gripe about the camera, and it's a fairly minor one for me. For some photographers, this may understandably be more of an issue.

Nikon accessories

There are plenty. My favorite: the MD-12 motor drive. This camera was made to have this motor drive attached, literally. Ergonomics is greatly improved with this motor drive, as is frames per second (just over 3, which isn't too bad). I'll never take the MD-12 off this body - it's a near perfect setup. Actually with the 80-200mm 2.8 AF-D attached, it would be pretty tough to handle this camera without the extra grip of the motor drive.

I've already mentioned multiple focusing screens. Multiple eye pieces with magnification are available if you need 'em. Of course, the hot shoe supports Nikon flash units. Even the MD-12 motor drive has several accessories (i.e. terminal shutter release button, corded remote release). Every accessory that I've purchased for the FM3A has demonstrated the same build quality as the FM3A.

Any shortcomings?

Two minor concerns. First, release the shutter and you'll notice that this is probably one of the noisiest cameras you've heard. Not a big deal, unless you need to be discrete. Second, and as some reviewers have mentioned, the metering indicator is not illuminated. However, with such a bright viewfinder, this has never been a problem for me. At dusk with little ambient light, I can still see the needle. Yes, in total darkness you can't see it, but film is not sensitive to dark, only light. :-) In other words, by the time it's too dark to see the needle, you're likely to be using the bulb setting anyway.

One final summarizing thought

When Nikon decides to stop making this camera, I'm going to buy up the remaining stock and sell them for a grand a piece on Ebay. Not keeping any for myself? No, because this one will still be working just fine.
Cheers.
 


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